London Fashion week men's 2018 has been keeping my Instagram feed alive for the past couple of days and one show that caught my eye was the Craig Green A/W collection. I've followed his Instagram for a couple of years now as his use of a neutral colour palette paired with unexpected shapes and heavily structured designs never fail to impress.
His work never fails to flow throughout each piece, there's always something that tends to link the garments together in one way or another. Throughout his previous collections there's a strong military feel across his work, his most recent collection however draws references more to uniforms as a whole as opposed to just the military. It's difficult to pinpoint what or who these uniforms would be for and despite no piece being exactly the same, there's a sense of unity throughout the collection as though you can imagine them being worn by the people of a futuristic city.
One of the key parts of his A/W 2018 collection that stood out was the large boat-like wooden structures adorned on some of the models. The colours of these a lot more garish than a lot of his usual work, with electric blues and block red frame work, all being tied together and bringing them back to Green's version of earth by a pair of neutral trousers.
It's clear Through his work that he has a history in art, Green originally started his foundation at Central St martins with the intentions of becoming a painter. Although he then switched and found himself following the path of fashion, there's still an obvious love for creating things and an almost sculptural feel about his work.
Although his clothes falls under the category of menswear, I wouldn't say I look at it and say it looks particularly more tailored towards men or women. In one article I read he talks about how it could be considered gender-less which again links to this idea of a uniform. I think the heaviness and clunky nature of the designs leads you to deem it as quite masculine, however there's not a single piece in the collection that I would question if I were to see it on a woman. This is something I'd like to think Green might consider for a future collection, not necessarily a women's line, but a collection that's worn by anyone so that we're able to see what the pieces look like across the genders as opposed to just men. Or perhaps if he were to extend the idea of obstructing the models faces like with the structures he's used in this collection so that we aren't distracted by the idea of who's wearing them, and our focus is drawn soley to the pieces.